Saturday, October 31, 2015

Travelling back in time to find answers...

Before the trip I decided to read a little bit about Kenya's history.  Coming from Honduras, I was intrigued by the fact that we share a similar past: an arduous process of formation that starts with a clash of cultures or worlds, transitions to a "colonization" period, and ends with a declaration of independence.  On one hand, there is the indigenous people, usually organized in tribes, many with their own language and culture, and on the other hand, the foreigners, that come in search of resources and end up exploiting the natives and imposing their own ways and culture.  In these cases, it's the "superior" culture that has the upper hand.  Although, as a topic that deserves discussion on it's own, who's to say which culture is superior...  The colonizing party usually does not dedicate enough effort to really understand the indigenous people and culture to truly value them.

So at the end of all this process, an interesting question to ask is: how much of the local culture survived this clash?  How did the two cultures blend to yield what is there today?  Naturally, I was very curious about these questions, and also about similarities and differences between our countries' history and culture.  Prior to the trip I learned that Kenya is a younger country than Honduras, as they gained their independence in 1963, while Honduras in 1821.  So for a moment I thought I could travel back in time, in some sense, to an earlier stage of my country's development.  How was Honduras like, less than a generation from its independence?

However, after talking to a few locals, I quickly learned two very important differences.  For one thing, Kenya was able to transition from the colonization period to their independence relatively quickly, while in Honduras the colonization period lasted roughly three centuries.  But more importantly, the process of independence came from within when the tribes united and fought for their freedom, while in Honduras it was started by the Creoles (a very different class than the indigenous people) and mostly for their own interests.  This key difference has helped instill a sense of identity in the case of Kenya, while Honduras has had to struggle over the years to define its own.  So perhaps I wasn't going to be able to gather much about my country's past from observing Kenya.

But going back to the original question...  I had the opportunity to learn about the Maasai tribe directly from a Maasai warrior, who even taught us how to hold and throw a spear.  It was fascinating to learn about how they live in harmony with nature, their knowledge of plants and how they use them for medicine and other remedies (e.g. they rub olive tree leaves on their body to use as mosquito repellent), how they can use elephant droppings to create a nutritious and fortifying soup, and their various tests of bravery (which included killing a lion and withstanding burns from a red hot poker to prove their worthiness to their tribe and mate).  Of course, I couldn't quite see how this culture of warriors transformed into the more modern culture found in Nairobi.  This would require a formal study, but I was looking for traits or behaviors that could be easily identified by simply talking to the people and observing the culture.  Among the easy ones to identify: the language (Kiswahili) and their connection to the land and nature, as farming is still considered a very important activity (from the tribes, to the rural towns, to the more developed cities).  From there on, it's hard to tell, but whether it came from the tribes or the colonization period, I managed to pick up on a few minor details that gave me some clues.

I could tell they're a conservative culture, as was evident in the humble demeanor of most people I talked with.  While listening carefully to what someone is saying during a conversation, they have this cute habit of replying "yes" in a cautious tone with their Kenyan accent to indicate that they're following.

I could also tell people were very happy and proud to be Kenyan, particularly from their town of origin.  Many people I spoke with wanted to know what I thought of Kenya.  I still remember a conversation I had with the chef at one of the hotels where I stayed.  He was happy to share he was from Kakamega, proud of their food, and he would say how he wanted to go back someday as: "it is the place to be".

Finally, I was pleasantly impressed by their hospitality.  Everywhere we went they would always make sure we had good food to eat and that we were treated well.  Overall, I got the sense that people think more in terms of the community rather than individual needs, where personal sacrifice for the greater good is more common.

As for travelling back in time, perhaps I wasn't able to travel as far back as I had hoped, but being there in Kenya reminded me of my early childhood in the mid eighties.  It took me back to when we lived in this small residential area in Tegucigalpa, with dirt roads and eucalyptus trees along the main road.  I remembered how I liked the smell of the eucalyptus leaves, the lighter and more relaxed color of the day thanks to the dirt roads, how cars would kick up dust when they passed by, walking along the streets with no sidewalk, houses with bindweed on their walls, lawns or green areas left to grow naturally without much care or maintenance, the sight of buildings designed more for function rather than aesthetics...

The slower pace of life, the humility of the people and the community-based mentality also took me back.  It was certainly refreshing and it reminded me of important values in life that we easily forget in a faster-paced society.  At the end of the trip, I was left reflecting on a phrase I heard a couple of times: "it takes a village to raise a child".  

Thursday, October 29, 2015

Luggage Repair

After a long trip with multiple legs, from the US to Kenya to the multiple towns and schools that we visited, our luggage took a pretty good beating.  Unfortunately, towards the end of our stay, one of the wheels on my larger suitcase broke off and the other one was very loose.  I had noticed that both wheels were starting to become loose a few days earlier, and was wondering if they would make it back home.  At the same time I was also thinking that I would have to get them repaired as soon as I got back and was already wondering how much that would cost (as the last time I had to have one wheel repaired on one of my other suitcases it cost me $50).  But now, on top of that I had to worry about how to haul this suitcase all the way back home.

Fortunately, I couldn't have been more lucky than to have a Kenyan on our IESC team.  I asked Kinnari if she knew of a place where we could go to have it repaired.  "Oh gosh, I think I know a shoe repairman near my uncle's place that may be able to do something, maybe sow it back on or something", said Kinnari.  My immediate first thought was: "I don't know if that would work, but you know what, I don't care, whatever it takes to get me back home (I'll figure it out later)".  Then, Stephanie, who had taken at least one basic engineering course in school, decided to take a look.  Upon further inspection, she had some good news and some bad news.  The bad news was that the frame was also bent.  The good news was that the screw mounts for the wheels were apparently still intact, and with a couple of washers and screws it shouldn't be too hard to repair.

And so the next morning we took my suitcase a few streets down Kinnari's uncle's place and found ourselves at a street corner, where a few handymen usually hang out waiting for opportunities to do business.  Kinnari spoke to an older gentleman, who was sitting on a cinder block, had his hands pretty dirty from various other repair jobs, but still maintained a somewhat formal appearance with a jacket and pants.  She was able to explain the repair that we needed and also negotiated a price and a time.  After an hour we came back and he had made the repair exactly as we had envisioned it, and the grand total was: 350 Kenyan Schillings (roughly equivalent to $3.50).

After all this, I realized two things:
  1. I was so glad that the wheel broke before the trip back home, as I was able to get a good repair that should last me for a while and for a much cheaper price (not to mention that now I didn't have to run the risk of the wheels breaking off during the trip back)
  2. After having visited a good portion of nice rural towns in the western part of Kenya, experienced the hospitality of the people, learned a little bit of Swahili, tried fried fish at the Lake Victoria fish market, seen most of the big five during our safari, tried Kinnari's favorite cane juice (with ginger) and her favorite fries at a local restaurant, there was no better way to complete the Kenya experience: have my suitcase repaired at a street corner in Nairobi :)

Monday, October 19, 2015

Rough Roads

The schools we have visited are in the rural areas of Kenya and required us to take long dirt roads to access. At times it felt like we were on the "Indiana Jones" ride at Disneyland for hours on end...but it was well worth it!



Gathering Water

Several times a day, the girls in Chepnyal fill buckets of water from the well behind their school and carry them up the hill.





Smiles in Sook

Although we were primarily working with one school in Chepnyal (St. Catherine's Secondary School for Girls), our walk from the church where we spent the night and the Sook ADP and from the Sook ADP to St. Catherine's took us past a preschool, a boys' primary school, a girls' primary school, and a boys' secondary school. So that they wouldn't feel left out, we brought a soccer ball and a school supply gift bag to each school. In return, the preschoolers sang us an adorable song and the primary school girls were led by their headmaster in a "group clap," which was cool to experience. All of the children we met were so happy to see us. 

St. Catherine's Chepnyal Girls' Secondary School





Chepnyal Girls' Primary School












St. Mary's Chepnyal ECDE (Early Childhood Development and Education) College






Sunday, October 18, 2015

Teaching the Teachers

One of the deliverables for our IESC assignment was to provide follow-up training to Digital Ambassadors in the Matete community who are supporting World Vision's "Women and the Web" program. Alejandro and Vasavi, our teacher trainers, put together a three hour lesson to show the Digital Ambassadors how to use World Pulse as a tool to advocate for women in their community and around the world. After the class was dismissed, the teachers stayed in the conference room and continued practicing what they had learned and teaching one another.


















Tour of the Dormitories

Morpus Primary School in Marich Pass is a rescue centre for children who have run away from abuse, FGM, and/or early marriage. Some of the girls showed us their living quarters - they will stay here until they complete Class 8 and then they will attend St. Elizabeth Secondary School a short walk away for another four years. It was wonderful to see how their school and computer lab have transformed their lives and to hear their aspirations.









Friday, October 16, 2015

The Gift Exchange

We brought school supplies and soccer balls for the sites we are visiting. In Marich Pass, the schools insisted on giving us a little something in return. We are thrilled to be honorary Pokot!